I just want to give everyone an update about the Landshare & Fantastic Farm and Garden Calculator website. We have moved the site to a new web host due to too much downtime with our old web host. The site now seems stable. However, we have noticed some minor glitches which we are looking into.

Main website:

Contact form hanging, not sending message. RESOLVED

Grow Your Own CSA Co-op:

• The sign page is showing an error. RESOLVED
• Error messages at top of website after  joining through the Grow Your Own CSA  RESOLVED

Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator users:

• Slow page load when opening or saving a calculator, only in Firefox browser.  Pages load fine in Safari or Chrome.  (this is possibly resolved as we have not seen recent issues.)
• Backslash before apostrophes (i.e.: Landshare\’s) when adding notes on a calculator page.  (we are looking into this.)

If you notice any other issues, don’t hesitate to contact us.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants are most likely to thrive at a location. The map is based on the average annual minimum winter temperature, divided into 10-degree F zones.

While most gardeners and farmers have been aware of their specific growing zone, they may not be aware that the USDA have updated the  plant hardiness zone map to reflect changes in zones due to climate change.

For instance, our zone here in the Denver area was 5a, and is now considered a 6a–one full zone change. Be sure to check your zone before planning your garden or farm this season!

Brad Lancaster has this really nice rainwater harvesting calculator on his site. This is a great tool to help you learn how much water you can catch off your roof(s), and how much water your gardens needs.  While his some of figures relate to Arizona, with the proper info on your local rainfall, this calculator can be of use to just about anyone, I believe. Try his rainwater harvesting calculator.

We apologize that the site was down for a while today.  We found the issue, and corrected it as soon as we could.

Sorry for it being a bit quiet here on the blog, but it has been one busy summer! I’m sure our Grow Your Own CSA Co-op members, and Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator users have been busy this growing season as well.

This site started because we heard a need to try to help connect new farmers and gardeners with land to grow on. The idea was to have the offer a sort of “matchmaking” service for growers and landowners. While our listing service has had it’s successes, we’ve decided to discontinue the listing service so we can better focus on the Grow Your Own CSA Co-op, Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator, and providing info on farming and gardening.

As a part of this change, we’ll be revising the look of the home page, making it easier to use.

We also have some exciting news to share, but for now it needs to remain a secret!  Stay tuned for that press release in the next few weeks.

Adding a forest garden to your yard or farm is a great way to increase biodiversity while growing edible crops—where nature does most of the work. In this video, Martin Crawford takes on a tour of his forest garden, discussing the benefits of creating forest gardens. If the concept of forest gardens are of interest to you, I’d also recommend his book, “Creating a Forest Garden.”

Photo by rkeohane on Flickr

The key to raising healthy vegetables and herbs is by first starting with great soil. How do you know how good your soil is? A soil test is a good start. You can get your soil tested at a lab, which will give you a detailed analysis of the nutrients, and deficiencies in your soil.

While there are great soil testing labs around the country, I highly recommend finding a source local to you. Contact your local county extension office to find the nearest lab (usually at a University with an agriculture department). The reason for this is that a local lab will have the best understanding of the soil in your area, and will provide you with more accurate information for improving your soil. This type of test provides valuable information, but there are also ways that you assess your soil quality yourself.

A system called the Willamette Valley Soil Quality Guide was developed by a team of farmers and soil scientists in Oregon, and uses simple methods that any farmer or gardener can use. This system uses 10 easy steps to test soil on your farm or in your garden. As you do the tests, it is best to look at the results as a whole, instead of focusing too closely on results from a single test.

Tests like checking soil structure and tilth, plant residue, and compaction can be done year-round, and you can do all 10 steps during the active growing weeks in spring. For best results you should check various locations on your farm, or in your garden, since soil quality may vary.

Test 1: Soil Structure and Tilth

This test should be done with soil that is not too dry, nor too wet. (Don’t assess frozen soil.) Dig a hole 6 to 10 inches deep and pull out a section of soil about the size of a soup can. Break the soil apart with your fingers to determine the structure. Is the soil granular, powdery, or have clods? Ideally, the soil should be made up of different sized aggregates (or crumbs), and they will hold their shape under slight pressure. If these crumbs are difficult to break apart, that means your soil is too hard.

A soil rich in organic matter is more porous which allows for easier movement of water and oxygen, which helps plants develop strong, healthy roots.

Test 2: Compaction

On farms, compacted soil occurs from farm machinery repeatedly passing over the same area of soil, and in home gardens it can occur in areas with heavy foot traffic. To test your level of compaction, you’ll want to use something like a wire flag (usually available at hardware stores). Push the wire flag vertically into the soil and record the depth at which it bends due to resistance in the soil. Repeat this test in various parts of your field or garden.

Compacted soil severely restricts air and water movement through the soil, inhibits root growth, and reduces microbial activity and the ability of earthworms and other beneficial organisms to live in the soil.

Test 3: Workability

If you’ve already worked your fields or garden, you probably already know about your soil’s workability. If the soil produces clods when tilling or digging, your workability is low. If you are farming with tractors, you can gauge workability by the amount of fuel your tractor uses to till the soil. If you are a gardener you can judge by the effort needed to prepare your beds.

Soil that is easier to work allows for better water infiltration, and is easier for preparing a good seedbed.

Test 4: Soil Organisms

A good quality of soil will be teeming with organisms such as centipedes, spiders, beetles and others. Dig a hole at least 6 inches deep and look into the hole. Make a list of the number of each species you find in a 2 to 4 minute period. If you count less than 10 total, you don’t have enough organisms in your soil.

Good soil will have a thriving and diverse population of fungi, bacteria, insects and invertebrates. These organisms not only help break down organic matter and make nutrients more available for plant growth, they also help reduce the opportunity for pests and disease.

Test 5: Earthworms

Examine the surface of the soil for earthworm castings and burrows. (Do this when the soil is not too wet or too dry.) Then dig out about 6 inches of soil and count the number of earthworms found in the shovelful of soil. At a minimum you’ll hopefully find three, but five or more is better. The absence of earthworms indicates that your soil does not have enough organic matter for them to feed on. Please note that you will be less likely to find earthworms in more desert-type locations such as in the Southwest.

Earthworms help to aerate the soil and increase water infiltration. Their casts infuse the soil with enzymes, bacteria, plant nutrients and organic matter. They also secrete compounds that help bind soil particles together which creates better tilth.

Test 6: Plant Residue

Plant residue can come from a previous crop (such as a cover crop), or from added organic material such as straw, leaves, manure, etc. Over time this plant residue breaks down, with the help of soil organisms, and becomes soil organic matter. This is the single most important component to healthy soil.

To assess residue decomposition dig down 6 inches, then examine the soil you pull out. Check for organic residue in various stages of decomposition. Smell the soil, does it have a sweet earthy smell, or no distinct smell, or does it have a sour, mucky smell? A sweet earthy smell is what you’re looking for, and indicates good decomposition, as does a darkly colored humus.

Test 7: Plant Vigor

You’ll do this test during the active growing season and will look for healthy plant color and size that appears relatively uniform. It will be helpful if you understand what overall health and development is considered normal in your region. You can learn this from other farmers or gardeners, from your local extension office, or from knowledgeable help at a local garden center. Please note that this test may be unreliable if you’ve had a drought, pest infestations, or if you planted later than recommended.

Plant vigor is a great indicator of effective soil management.

Test 8: Root Growth

You can assess root growth at the same time you are assessing plant vigor. As with the other tests, moisture conditions should be similar. Using a hand trowel, gently dig around a selected plant as extensively as possible to get an idea of how deep the roots extend into the soil. Check the root system by separating the roots and checking the root development, number of fine roots, and color of new roots. Brown, mushy roots indicate serious drainage problems. Stunted roots could indicate disease, or the presence of pests feeding on the roots.

Test 9: Water Infiltration

Water infiltration is the movement of water into the soil. A porous soil allows good infiltration, which in turn gets water to the plant’s roots—where they need it. It also prevents run-off, and erosion.

For this test you’ll need a cylinder of some sort—a large empty coffee can with no bottom will work. Push it into the soil so about 3 inches extends above the soil to allow water to “pond” there. Gently fill the can with water, and note the time it takes for the water to be absorbed into the soil. Repeat this several times until the soil becomes saturated and your times become consistent.  Absorption rates slower than 1/2 to 1 inch per hour indicate compacted soil.

Test 10: Water Availability

Water held in soil pores that is extractable by plant roots is called available water. This water is more resistant to evaporation and better supplies plants between waterings.

The next time you have a soaking rain, record how long it takes until plants begin showing signs of needing watering again. Longer times indicate better water availability and are another sign of good soil structure and soil organic matter.

For more detailed information on these tests, and a handy printable card, download these two PDFs from the Oregon State University:

Willamette Valley Soil Quality Card Guide

Willamette Valley Soil Quality Card

It is that time of the year to start buying vegetable and flower seeds for the garden or farm.  As you page through seed catalogs, or browse seed racks at your local store, some of the terms might be a little confusing. To help, here are the meaning for some of the terms you’ll see.

Organic –  Like organic produce, organic seed is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, and is not genetically modified seed. In the U.S., organically grown seeds must meet the standards of the Dept. of Agriculture’s National Organic Program (NOP).

Heirloom  (aka Heritage) - The definition seems to vary, but in general an heirloom plant is one that has been grown reliably, carefully preserved and handed along from generation to generation. Some descriptions say an heirloom plant has to have been grown reliably for at least 50 years. Heritage varieties are often open-pollinated, but there are some early hyrbids.

Open Pollinated (aka OP) – Plants produced without the selective cross-fertilization of hybrids. These varieties retain a more diverse, stronger genetic heritage and grow true to type. These seeds may be saved and will produce the same plant in future sowings as long as proper seed saving methods are used. (To learn more about basic seed saving, visit www.seedsave.org

Hybrid (aka F1 Hybrid) –  Some may misunderstand the term hybrid and think it is not a good thing, like GM or GE plants.  Hybrids are created by cross-fertilizing plants to create desired features in the offspring, which creates a new variety that is superior to either parent plant. Seed from a hybrid crop will not likely breed true for future crops, so you will not want to seed save from a hybrid plant.  When growing hybrid plants you should start each growing season with hybrid seed from a reliable seed supplier.

Genetically Modified (aka GM, GMO, GE, Genetically Engineered) – Seed that is altered at the gene level in a laboratory to produce characteristics such as sterility or pest resistance. These types of seeds are legally owned buy the large seed companies, can’t not be seed saved, and are largely designed to create profit for their owners (ie: the large seed companies).  It is the feeling of many, including us, that the risks of using these genetically altered seeds far outweigh any possible benefits.

Annual – A plant that completes its life cycle, from seed to seed in one growing season.  While you would generally reseed these plants each new growing season, if it possible to let the plant go to seed at the end of a growing season, and self-seed itself. (I often do this on some level with my various greens.)

Biennial – A plant that completes its life cycle in two years. The first year it grows leaves, stems and roots, then is dormant during colder months. In the second year it produces flowers, fruits, and seeds before it finally dies.

Perennial - A plant that lives for more than two years, with some living for decades. (or thousands of year as in the case with some trees).  Perennial fruits, herbs and vegetables are an excellent way to create fairly low maintenance edible landscaping around your home, and can create diversity on a farm.

When buying seed for your garden or farm, please consider buying fromBotanical Interests .  With each purchase you make by clicking the link above, or one of their ads on our site, they will donate a percentage of the sale to our project.  Also, if you know of a local seed producer near you, please consider support them as well!

Heard of Late Blight but not sure how to determine if plants in your garden or farm have it? This short two part video series will help you identify Late Blight, and show you how to manage and control it.

Whether you are new at starting a CSA farm, or already have experience, this online planning software can help simplify your planning. The Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator handles all the heavy thinking for you, and you only need to enter the basic info about your farm and your growing needs.

The farm and garden calculator will help you to determine:

• Potential yields for a wide range of vegetables and herbs
• The number of plants required
• Row space required for each plant type
• Planting and harvest dates for your area (by noting your last frost date)
• Successive plantings
• How many people or CSA members you can provide for
• Retail sales calculator for market gardeners & farmers

The calculator comes in three skill levels: Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced.  And there is a version for both farmers and gardeners.  The farm version includes the retail sales calculator which allows you to enter the amount of each crop you want to sell each week and the price per pound, then it does the math for you, letting you see your potential income from retail or wholesale sales.

You can learn more about it here: www.landshareco.org/tools

In my next article, I will be writing about how I am using the Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator to help me determine how much land I’ll need to produce a given income from the farm in order to be financially sustainable.  In less than an hour I was able to determine how much land I needed to be under cultivation, how many CSA members I could have, how much I could sell to restaurants, and how much revenue that could bring in.  Stay tuned for that article, and see just how much you get for your low yearly fee to use the Fantastic Farm & Garden Calculator!